Tuesday, July 30, 2013

What mojo is made of

Once in a while, a recipe comes along that makes you believe that there is nothing wrong in the world, and that, more importantly, you've still got your mojo.  And when you're knocking on the door of your Double-Nickle Birthday (isn't that a cute way of referring to being almost 55? Thank you, Thea!), you need all the mojo you can get.  Especially when hitting the Double-Nickle means carrying an extra 35 pounds.  That's Mojo with a capital M. 

Her Mojo-ness came home last Friday from the local HEB with a large portion of salmon.  And feeling rather uninspired (about which I have recently wined whined), I decided not to think about how to prepare it until much later in the evening.  And by much later, I mean after several glasses of wine, and about fifteen minutes until it was almost time for dinner.

This is how I maintain my Mojo-ness: plenty of mystique and plenty of grape juice. 

In an effort to avoid thinking about cooking dinner (and as an excuse to drink more wine), I scanned through my email inbox.  And there, like mojo from heaven, was an email from Snooth, with a passel of ideas about how to cook salmon.  Even though several looked delicious, I chose the recipe for which I had most of the ingredients. 

This is what Mojo-ness is made of: making what you've got work.

The original recipe called for oil-cured olives.  Since I go through these beauties quite frequently, I had none in the house.  I subbed canned pitted black olives and capers to approximate the salt content.  I think you could easily sub sliced kalmata olives, but know that these substitutions don't approximate the texture and unctuousness of oil-cured olives. 



I used small yellow, orange and red tomatoes instead of the plum tomatoes called for, and I think that visually, that choice made the fish a stunning centerpiece.  The tomatoes were also very sweet, which was a delightful counterpoint to the saltiness of the capers and olives. 

I would like to make this recipe again very soon, to add diced fennel to the tomato/caper/olive mixture, and to try it on halibut or another dense, oily fish.   I also baked the salmon, instead of grilling as the original recipe suggested.  I think you can omit the saffron if you have none in your pantry, but it did add a subtle depth that made this main dish sophisticated, beautiful and elegant.

We enjoyed this salmon with a lovely, slightly fruity pinot noir, McMannis Pinot Noir 2011 (CA).  This lively red is an interplay of red fruit, predominantly berries, vanilla and oak spice.  Tasty and nicely balanced, this wine is a real bargain for just under $10.

Salmon al Cartoccio   (Recipe adapted from Fine Cooking)

     Seriously.  Yum.

1 cup mixed small tomatoes (red, yellow, orange, green zebra--make it colorful), halved
1/4 cup pitted and coarsely chopped black oil-cured olives (20 to 25 olives), or substitute 1/2 cup sliced canned pitted black olives and 1 Tbs. drained non-pareil capers
1/2 cup finely diced fresh fennel (optional)
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbs. minced fresh garlic (3 to 4 medium cloves)
1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
Pinch saffron (15 to 20 threads)
Freshly ground black pepper
Four 6-oz. center-cut, skin-on salmon fillets (or substitute halibut)
Chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

1.)  Heat oven to 375 degrees.
2.)  In a medium bowl, combine the tomatoes, olives, capers, optional fennel, olive oil, garlic, thyme, salt, saffron, and pepper to taste.
3.)  Set one piece of salmon, skin-side down, on a 12x18-inch piece of heavy-duty foil; sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Spoon a quarter of the tomato mixture over the fish and seal tightly. Repeat to make four packets.
4.)  Place foil packets on a large baking sheet and place on bottom rack of oven.
5.)  Roast for approximately 20 minutes, or until fish is opaque throughout, about 8 minutes (open a packet and cut into the fish to check).
6.)  Let fish rest for a few minutes before serving and garnish with chopped parsley.  Serves four.

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Blues for breakfast

It should not be OK to complain on a food blog about how tired you are, how busy you are, how uninspired you have been, or how much you just REALLY NEED A VACATION.

But I just did complain.  And I still do need a vacation.

And while I'm waiting, waiting, waiting for all of the tiredness, busy-ness and lack of inspiration to go away (hopefully in the form of a vacation), along comes this recipe for Blueberry-Stuffed French Toast with Blueberry-Orange Sauce:


The original recipe came from Texas Co-op Power Magazine, a monthly production of my electric cooperative.  I have to stop right here and put in a plug for my great electric utility cooperative, Bluebonnet Electric Cooperative, one of the oldest electric cooperatives in the state of Texas.  I also want to thank Texas Electric Cooperatives for producing several regional editions of their great magazine.  I look forward to reading it from cover to cover every month, and aside from well-written articles about Texas history and great local interest articles, by the looks of every issue, it's evident that people in Texas like to cook, and that they love to share their recipes with Texas Co-op Power Magazine.  Thank you, thank you, thank you, Texas Co-op Power, for bringing me great recipes all year long!

When I saw the recipe for stuffed French toast in the June 2013 edition, not only did it immediately visually appeal to me, I knew by the ingredient list that I had to eat it soon.  So, at a recent brunch, I served up my own version of the original recipe.  And I remembered to take pictures.

But wouldn't you know it, the picture that I liked the best didn't show how the stuffing oozes out of the French bread.  That's mostly because the amateur photographer who also thinks she's a food stylist thought about all of that after the fact.  However, look at how beautifully golden and vivid that plate of food looks?  Doesn't it look good?  Moist, custardy and creamy on the inside, crunchy on the outside, this French toast delivers looks, class and great taste, all on one plate.

You would think that the blueberry-orange sauce would be sweet, but it's balanced nicely with the tartness from the fresh oranges and the orange juice, and it's made sophisticated by a healthy glug of Grand Marnier.  The filling is rich with cream cheese and orange zest and bursting with blueberries.   Even better, you can prep this recipe the night before since that makes the bread extra-custardy.  Bake the next morning, reheat the orange-blueberry sauce, adding the optional Grand Marnier and viola!


Blueberry-Stuffed French Toast with Blueberry-Orange Sauce

     I've adapted the original recipe and made it bit richer and more sophisticated.  It's become a keeper in my kitchen.  If you're making this recipe ahead, follow steps 2 through 8, preheating your oven just before you are ready to bake and serve.

6 eggs
2 tsp. grated orange zest, divided
2/3 cup orange juice
3 Tbs. sugar, divided
Pinch salt, optional
8 oz. neufchatel or cream cheese, at room temperature
2-3 Tbs. milk or cream
1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries (thawed and drained, if frozen)
1 large loaf Italian or French bread, cut into 8 thick slices
1/3 cup sliced almonds

1.)  Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Spray a large baking sheet with cooking spray and set aside.
2.)  In a medium bowl beat eggs, 1 tsp. orange zest and orange juice, 2 Tbs. sugar and the salt until well blended.
3.)  Pour into a 13-by-9-by-2-inch baking pan and set aside.
4.)  In a small bowl, combine the neufchatel, cream, orange zest and remaining sugar, mixing well.
5.)  Stir in the blueberries gently until well-coated.
6. )  With the tip of a sharp serrated knife, such as a steak knife, cut through the middle of each slice of bread, from the top down, until about 1 inch from the bottom crust.  You should have a "butterfly" or a "book."
7.)  Fill butterflies with the blueberry mixture, dividing evenly.
8.)  Place filled slices into the egg mixture. Let stand, turning once, until egg mixture is absorbed, about 1-2 minutes on each side.  The drier the bread, the longer it should sit in the egg mixture, up to overnight. 
9.)  Arrange bread on the prepared baking sheet and sprinkle with almonds.
10.)  Bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes, turning slices after 10 minutes. Serve with Blueberry Orange Sauce (recipe follows).  Serves 4.
Blueberry Orange Sauce with Grand Marnier
     You can make this sauce the day before and chill it until ready to heat and serve.  If you're using the Grand Marnier, just make sure you add it after you reheat.

3 Tbs. sugar
1 Tbs. cornstarch
1/8 tsp. salt, optional
1/4 cup orange juice
1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries
1 cup orange sections (about 2 oranges)
1/4 cup Grand Marnier (optional)

1.)  In a cup combine sugar, cornstarch and salt. Set aside.
2.)  In a small saucepan bring orange juice and 1/4 cup of water to a boil.
3.)  Add blueberries and orange sections and return to a boil.
4.)  Cook until liquid is released from fruit, about 2 minutes, then stir in sugar mixture.
5.)  Cook, stirring constantly, until sauce thickens, 1 to 2 minutes.
6.)  Remove from heat, stir in Grand Marnier, and serve.  Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

Thursday, June 27, 2013

Outrageously addictive rosemary walnuts

Salty, spicy, sweet and crunchy.  Rich, earthy flavors of walnuts and rosemary.  And the total inability to stop eating these nuts, which make a great snack and are delicious with red wine and ruby or tawny port.

I make versions of these nuts from time to time, each one different from the last.  I think these are by far the best in terms of flavor and texture.  You'll want to store them in a single layer because I've found they're slighty tacky even after having cured for 2 hours at room temperature, but I think they'll get a little crunchier if I let them sit a bit more.

That is, if I can keep my hands off them.

 
 
Outrageously Addictive Rosemary Walnuts

     You might want to make a double batch...

2 cups walnut halves and pieces
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 Tbs. water
1 Tbs. olive oil
2 Tbs. dried rosemary
2 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or foil (if using foil, oil well).  Combine all ingredients in a bowl, stirring well to coat.  Spread mixture evenly on lined baking sheet, separating nuts where possible.  Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring from time to time, which helps the coating to accumulate.  Cool completely and store airtight.  Makes about 2 cups.

Thursday, June 13, 2013

Posh potato salad

Who can resist a well-made potato salad that transcends the ordinary, impresses your luncheon guests and makes a great meal on its own?


This version, an adaption from finecooking.com, is full of vibrant color, rich texture and most importantly, great flavor.  It starts with basic ingredients, acquires elegance from special additions and employs techniques to maximize flavors.  If you add grilled shrimp or salmon and build it on a bed of lettuce, it makes a fantastic and gorgeous meal.

Posh Potato Salad

     Definitely several steps above the ordinary...


1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 tsp. dried oregano
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 lb. haricot vert or green beans
2 cups frozen artichoke heart quarters, thawed
extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling
1 large clove garlic, minced
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1-1/2 lb. red-skinned potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 3/4-inch pieces
4 to 5 scallions, finely chopped, white and green parts separated
1/2 cup roasted red pepper strips (about 3 oz.), cut into 2-inch pieces
1/2 cup Kalamata olives, pitted and halved
1/2 cup crumbled goat cheese
4 to 8 large Bibb or other leaf lettuce leaves, washed and dried (optional)
grilled shrimp or salmon (optional)

1.)  Combine the vinegar and oregano in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper.
2.)  Whisk in the olive oil and taste for seasoning.
3.)  Heat oven to 425 degrees.
4.)  On a large baking sheet with sides, spread out haricot vert and artichoke hearts.
5.)  Drizzle generously with olive oil, then add garlic, salt and pepper to taste and toss with your hands until vegetables are coated.
6.)  Roast for about 12 to 15 minutes; remove pan from oven and cool to room temperature.
7.)  Put the potato chunks in a large saucepan of well-salted water and bring to a boil over high heat.
8.)  Cook potatoes until fork tender, about 10 minutes or more, reducing heat if necessary to simmer gently until just cooked.
9.)  Drain and transfer the potatoes to a large bowl; add the white parts of the scallions.
10.) Drizzle potatoes with on a few tablespoons of the dressing; toss to coat.
11.) Season with salt and pepper to taste, then set aside to cool slightly.
12.)  When ready to serve, add the green parts of the scallions, the haricots vert, artichokes and red peppers to the potatoes; season to taste with salt and pepper.
13.)  Divide among 4 to 6 plates and serve on a bed of lettuce leaves, drizzling with remaining dressing and scattering olives and goat cheese over all.
14.)  Top with grilled shrimp or salmon if you wish.  Serves 4 to 6.


Try this salad with Triennes "Sainte Fleur" Viognier 2010, a light, refreshingly aromatic white wine that is dry and a bit floral.  See your wine guy at Spec's for assistance with this and any other wine needs.

Thursday, June 6, 2013

Half-way to Hades no longer

I live on the fringes of the Austin SMSA in Bastrop County. When I first chose to live in the town of Elgin, it was because I could get a lot of house for the money and some land to go with it. I had family in Elgin and it seemed like a good place to put down roots, finish some academic goals and become part of a community. It's worked out pretty well, mainly because I followed two important rules: Don't shit where you eat. And always import your love.

Like most small Texas towns, Elgin has a story. Formerly known as Hogeye (hence,
The Hogeye Festival), Elgin had a reputation as somewhat of a "wild" town in the wild, wild west, boasting the best of the modern day vices in frequent, copious and blatantly obvious supply. By 1890, Elgin had a population of 1,100 and there were seven saloons, along with various businesses and several churches.  But the saloons (and the private enterprises that sprang up with them) apparently made an impression. When the train came through, the conductor would announce “Hell-gin, half way to Hades, next stop!”

Boasting thriving brick companies, cotton gins, two doctors, a dentist and its own newspaper, by the turn of the century, Elgin had become a thriving depot town, benefitting from two major railways and eight passenger trains daily.  Elgin also became known for its sausage and has
earned a place on the map for one of the places to stop along the Texas barbeque trail.  For more about Elgin, its history and attractions, click here.
Photo credit: Unknown
Making a choice to live 45 minutes outside the city of Austin has been a good one: I scored a great house with almost an acre of land in a wooded community, my drive to the office is short and sweet with few traffic lights, I often see wildlife in the course of my day (including the man on the horse trotting alongside me down Highway 95), and there is no better treat in the spring than when the highway medians and shoulders are blanketed with bluebonnets, firewheels, paintbrushes and winecups, which immeasureably brighten my daily commutes.

I also enjoy meteor showers, living among plenty of trees and the family of owls that nests each year in my back yard. But living on the fringes of the SMSA also means that I often miss out on Austin's cultural events, food blogger events, great restaurants, movies, and convenient shopping. It also means that I am often unable to get ingredients such as Chiogga beets, Papillon roquefort, hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and kumquats unless I make a regular trek into the Big City.


I know I sound like a whiner, but procuring good food is important to me. It has been painful at times to shop in my community grocery store because of its limitations, and because, at times, simply trying to find common items like fresh asparagus, artisan breads or wild salmon have been extremely difficult.  But we're finally experiencing some changes.






Recently, my local HEB underwent a major expansion and facelift. We got an expanded produce department and a huge deli, bakery and tortilleria department. We got a real fish counter (but sadly, not a butcher counter). And we got sushi, which I love and purchase quite frequently.








Rumor has it that the changes took place because we are expecting the construction of a major chain retailer known as W@$%&*!   I won't get up on my soapbox about bloodsucking corporations who exploit the people who work for them; I just tipped you off about my politics.  Nevertheless, I'm finding shopping at my local HEB a lot less painful. It's been totally revamped into a bright, clean, decently-stocked grocery store. I'm hopeful that we'll continue to see new items and enjoy an ever-widening selection of foods.
My HEB is halfway to Hades no longer.
 

Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Streusel shortcake, redux

Leftover streusel shortcake means one of two things: either you ran out of strawberries with cinnamon and amaretto, or you want to do something fun with the peaches you scored so you can eat more streusel shortcake. 

Yes, we ran out of strawberries.  And yes, we scored peaches.  And Vindaloo being Vindaloo, she decided to macerate the peaches in Domaine de Canton, a French ginger liqueur, which was a lovely counterpoint to the fresh peaches.



This is a gorgeous elixir, pungent with Vietnamese ginger, great for sipping on its own, or for enhancing whatever you think would pair well with ginger.  Think stonefruit, blueberries, apples and pears.  Domaine de Canton also makes beautiful cocktails.  Currently, The French Ginger Martini is a fave for its combination of orange and ginger elements.  Make sure your ingredients are ice cold before sipping so you can enjoy the transformation as the cocktail slowly warms.  I've found allowing the cocktail to warm slowly to be a challenge, however, since this drink is so intriguingly tasty.

You can find other magical cocktail recipes here, or you can sip Domaine de Canton straight up in elegant little cordial glasses, which is what we often do.  As you can see by the level of the liquid in the bottle, it's very popular as an after dinner drink at The Voluptuous Table.
 
Making the peach streusel shortcake is simple using leftover streusel shortcake from the original recipe.  Macerate the peaches, peeled and sliced, for about an hour with a little granulated sugar and a little Domaine de Canton.  Slice and warm the shortbread, spoon the peaches and their juices on top, then top with whipped cream and some chopped crystalized ginger.


Sunday, May 26, 2013

Strawberry streusel shortcake with amaretto-cinnamon strawberries and amaretto whipped cream

When a good recipe idea starts with "Combine biscuit mix with...", I'm pretty much out the door.  But wanting an alternative to plain old strawberry shortcake, I persevered, remade the recipe from scratch and presented dessert to delighted tastebuds at a recent dinner party.





Start with lots of fresh strawberries and some good quality cinnamon.

Original photo by Jon Davis, enhanced by Vindaloo Tiramsu.
 
Then stem them, slice them and combine them with a little sugar, cinnamon and a glug or two of amaretto.  Let them macerate for at least an hour while you make the streusel shortcake.  When you're ready to serve, top with whipped cream sweetened with a little sugar and some more amaretto.

No Bisquick.  All bombshell.


 

Strawberry Streusel Shortcake with Amaretto-Cinnamon Strawberries and Amaretto Whipped Cream  (adapted from an idea from MrFood.com)

Make the strawberries:

2 cups strawberries, washed stemmed and sliced
2 Tbs. sugar
1/2 tsp. good-quality cinnamon
1 oz. amaretto

Combine strawberries, sugar, cinnamon and amaretto in a bowl and mix well.  Cover and let sit for one hour at room temperature if using right away; otherwise, cover and chill until ready to use, up to 6 hours.

Make the streusel shortcake:

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 Tbs. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
3 Tbs. sugar
1/2 cup oil 
2/3 to 3/4 cup half and half, milk, or cream
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
1/2 tsp. good-quality cinnamon
1/2 cup butter, softened
1/2 cup whole skinned almonds, chopped or crushed
 
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Grease an 8 x 8 baking pan.  Combine first four ingredients in a large bow, then stir in oil and enough milk or cream to make a soft dough.  Spread dough evenly in prepared pan, patting with your hands if necessary.
 
Combine brown sugar, cinnamon and butter until well-blended; stir in almonds.  Using your fingers, crumble mixture evenly over dough in pan.  Bake for about 15 to 17 minutes or until shortcake springs back when touched with a finger.  Cool on wire rack.

Make the whipped cream:

1 cup whipping cream
2 Tbs. sugar
1 oz. amaretto
toasted sliced almonds, for garnish

In a mixing bowl, combine cream and sugar and whip until soft peaks form. Continue whipping while drizzling in the amaretto.  To assemble dessert, cut shortcake into squares.  Spoon strawberries and some of their juices onto the shortcake.  Top with whipped cream and sprinkle with toasted sliced almonds.  Makes four generous servings.