Where's the pork?

I now realize how unfair it was of me to write about my predilection for pork in the previous post and not send along any recipes.  Mea culpa.  And if you're still following me after that faux pas, you can find recipes below.  The first is for a killer good pork loin that is versatile as both an entree (with just the pork and the most incredible au jus) or as a sandwich you can eat like a French Dip, and it feeds a lot of people (if you're willing to share).  My long time Polish soul-sister TxMama passed this recipe along to me from her Cooking Light magazine and I tweaked it a bit with melted Provolone and caramelized onions to do the sandwiches.  My brother, whose secondary occupation is eating, commented when he ate this,  "Wow, Sis, this is seriously restaurant-quality food here.  I gotta have the recipe."  Then, "Can I have another one?"  So you've got at least one solid review.

Wine suggestions here are for dry or off-dry rose, or a red that relies on Grenache to give body and character, such as a Cotes du Rhone, would be a good choice.  I also think that some Argentinian Malbecs and Malbec blends will be a good match for this dish.  Look for the Carlos Basso label, or Diseno Old Vine Malbec.

The second recipe is for a Hungarian pork goulash that can be spiced to your liking and can be served either with or without sour cream.  I suppose the addition of sour cream depends on how close to your New Year's resolutions you decide to make this dish.  You can make homemade spaetzle, or you can take the easy way out and just serve it over store-bought broad noodles.  In Texas, we have access to wonderful Czech cooking, so I often get homemade kluski noodles in a small-town grocery store and prepare them to have with this dish.  I've also made this goulash in a slow cooker with much success.  You could, of course, pair this dish with a good craft beer and that is something I know nothing about--consult your local Spec's.  What I drank when I last made this goulash was Chateau Marouine Rose Cotes du Provence 2005 (France).  This is a slightly off-dry rose with lots of melon and fruit and an earthniness that makes it substantial.  Lush, creamy finish and for me, it stood up perfectly to the richness and spiciness of the goulash.  You could also go with a not too heavy red, such as a lighter Zinfandel or something that relies on the Sangiovese grape.  Again, check with your wine guys at Spec's for help.

The third recipe comes via a link.  Anne Burrell's brined pork chops with fennel pollen are really juicy, toothsome and wonderfully fragrant.  They are worth the extra time and effort, and so is the polenta recipe that accompanies them.  You have to plan ahead for this one to leave yourself time for brining, and you need fennel pollen, which you can get at Pollen Ranch (I mean, where else would pollen come from?) at http://www.fennelpollen.com/. 

Wine recommendations?  My wine guy at Spec's handed me a very affordable bottle of Domaine de Cabasse Cotes du Rhone 2007 (France).  Mostly Grenache, this red is reviewed as having lots of fruit (strawberry and dried apple predominant) that opens and mellows beautifully in the glass and is balanced by a bright, clean acidity and a creamy finish.  Sounds like a dream come true, no?  Laura Ashley and Liberty of London fans, you'll love the label!  P.S., my wine guy told me he was very envious that I was taking that bottle home with me.

And without further ado, the recipes:

Roast Pork Sandwiches with Provolone, Caramelized Onions and au jus

2  teaspoons freshly ground  black pepper

1  teaspoon  dried rosemary

3/4  teaspoon  salt

1  garlic clove, minced

2  tablespoons olive oil, divided

1  (1-pound) pork tenderloin, trimmed

1 large onion, sliced into 1/4 inch rings

1  (14-ounce) can less-sodium beef broth

1/4  cup  dry sherry

1  tablespoon  tomato paste

6  (2-ounce) French bread rolls or hard rolls

6 slices Provolone cheese

Romaine leaves or arugula (optional)

1.  Preheat oven to 400°.

2.  Combine first 4 ingredients in a small bowl; add 1 teaspoon oil.  Rub over pork.  Let stand 15 minutes.

3.  Heat 2 teaspoons of oil in a large oven-proof skillet over medium-high heat.  Add pork; cook 4 minutes, browning on all sides.

4.  Bake at 400° in a deep-sided roasting pan for 10 minutes or until a thermometer registers 160° (slightly pink).  Let stand 5 minutes.

5.  Meanwhile heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in saute pan.  Saute onion slices until caramelized on medium heat, about 10-12 minutes.  Keep warm.

6.  Remove pork from pan; cut diagonally across grain into 12 slices.

7.  Return pan to medium-high heat, and add broth, scraping pan to loosen browned bits.  Add sherry and tomato paste; stir with a whisk.  Bring to a boil.  Reduce heat; simmer 5 minutes.

8.  Cut rolls in half horizontally.  Toast, if desired.  Place Provolone cheese on top side of roll and melt briefly in hot oven.  

9.  Place 2 slices pork on bottom half of each roll; top with caramelized onions and romaine or arugula, if desired.  Cover with roll tops.  Serve with au jus.  Makes 6 sandwiches.

Hungarian Pork Goulash
adapted from The New Goodhousekeeping Cookbook, ed. Carter


2 Tbs. oil
2 medium-sized onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 Tbs. paprika (I like to use a mixture of Hungarian sweet with Hangarian sharp)
2 lbs. pork, cubed
1 16 oz. bag or can sauerkraut, drained
1 small tomato, cut up
2 1/2 cups rich chicken broth
2 tsp. caraway seeds
1 tsp. salt
8 oz. sour cream (optional)

1.  In a 5-quart Dutch oven, heat oil over medium heat.  Cook onions, stitting occasionally, until tender; add garlic and cook another minute or so.  
2.  Add paprika and cook and stir for 1 minute.
3.  Add pork and next five ingredients; heat to boiling, then reduce to low heat, cover and simmer 45 minutes to 1 hour, stirring occasionally, until meat is fork-tender.
4.  Skim off extra fat and stir in sour cream, if using.  Heat through gently.  Serve with noodles or homemade spaetzle.  Makes 8 servings.


Anne Burrell's pork chop recipe:

http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/anne-burrell/brined-pork-chops-with-soft-parmigiano-polenta-recipe/index.html

May your tastebuds dance all night long!

A brief dissertation on why I think the pig should be the culinary national animal

I could be totally virtuous and loyal to the lifestyle of a vegetarian, except for one little porcine detail.  Pig.  I could live without beef, without chicken, and even without seafood.  But I don't think I could live without what I consider to be the most delectable of all meats: pork.

Now, I have friends who love to eat, love to cook and who are sadly, allergic to pork.  I really do feel sorry for them, they are missing out on so much.  And their suffering is clearly intensified because they're aware of it.  But I can only cry a little bit because after all, more for me!  If I'm gonna have meat for dinner, chances are I'll want pork.  If I order breakfast in a restaurant, likely I'll want bacon.  If I crave something from the grill in my backyard, it's probably sausage and peppers (or as we say up North, "sooawsehg 'n peppahs").  Thinking of having Mexican food in south Austin?  Tacos al pastor!  Honoring your grandmother's Christmas Eve tradition?  Pork roast and sauerkraut!  Feel like whipping up a little snack from interior Mexico?  Carnitas!  Having a Superbowl party?  Aren't pork rinds de rigueur?

Let's just start with a brief, but not exhaustive, rundown of the reasons why I think that the pig and not the turkey should be exalted above all others on High Holidays and should be our culinary national animal: succulent BBQ baby back ribs, old fashioned smothered pork chops over buttery mashed potatoes, herb and garlic crusted pork tenderloin sliced just so, thick slabs of bacon (with anything), crown roast of pork with those cute little frilly things, spicy New Mexico pork and green chile stew, the Friday pork chop lunch at Perry's (apparently, it's a Texas thing), country ham with Jezebel sauce and little biscuits, Hungarian pork goulash rich with sour cream, Southern pan sausage and cream gravy, medallions of pork glazed with Calvados, apples and shallots, Boston butt covered in a dry spice rub crisping on the rotisserie...my eyes are glazing over!  And I haven't even begun to tap the limits of what our friend Mr. Pig contributes to my happiness and well-being. 

I'm sorry, National Turkey Federation of America, but I don't think Mr. Turkey can compete.  After all, Mr. Tom Turkey has one day (well, possibly two days) a year to shine, and then it's all over.  But no, it's not really all over because there's this thing called leftover turkey you have to deal with.  And I don't know about you folks, but I can only eat so much turkey.  What's worse is that dozens of women's magazines have devoted themselves to dedicating half their November print space to leftover turkey recipes!  That's because it's hard to be creative with dried out, leftover turkey!  Have you ever heard anyone complain to you about having to use up leftover pork?  No siree, Tom!  That's because there usually isn't any. 

And I haven't even gotten around to waxing eloquent about pancetta, one of my favorite seasoning ingredients.  Or proscuitto.  Or tasso.  Or bratwurst.  Or chorizo.  Or jamon Iberrico and jamon Serrano.  Or applewood-smoked slab bacon.  Or all the wonderful, garlicky Polish sausages my grandmother used to make for us.

But instead of just appealing to your baser instincts, let me also mention that the pig is considered a fairly intelligent animal.  Not to malign the turkey's smarts (and by extension, Ben Franklin's judgment), but the pig has been referred to as "the smartest domestic animal in the world" (McLaughlin 2008).  Pigs are also adorable (when they're piglets), they make cute little squealing noises and they make great pets!  You can train a pig to use a litter box!  Pigs have charm, personality, and presence!  They even snort without having to be taught!  And let's not overlook the five most famous pigs: Porky Pig (Warner Bros. cartoons), Arnold (mid 1960's TV show Green Acres), Miss Piggy (The Muppets), Babe (the 1995 movie that won an Oscar), and Wilbur (of Charlotte's Web).  Sadly, there is no comparable list of famous turkeys.  Except perhaps in our nation's capital...

One last-ditch effort to convince you: in 2006, national turkey consumption was averaged at 17 lbs. per person (National Turkey Federation 2010).  The figure for pork consumption in the US the same year?  Almost 64 lbs. per person (preliminary statistical data for USDA 2006).  So case closed.  I'm writing my congressperson immediately to petition that the pig be recognized as the culinary national animal.  Now, how's that for pork-barrel politics?

Oink!