By the way, my brother, who is still here for several days, actually rode his Harley from Virginia to Texas, something I neglected to mention in my list of superlatives about him and his cooking the other night. He has also managed to repair several things I didn't even know were in need of repair. Is this guy a Renaissance Man or what? Sorry ladies, he's taken. But this should be encouraging to you: there are still nice men out there that your mother would approve of. Those nice men will also climb up on your roof and clean out your gutters. Those nice men will also sit at your dinner table and eat your prissily elegant food without so much as a wimper. And they will ask for seconds.
Thursday's weather was beyond sublime, perfect picnic weather. Cloudless, piercingly bright and a luscious temperature of 78 degrees. During our evening meal, we dined al fresco on a beautiful rustic table (one of the projects my brother completed for me), shared a bottle of Petronius Chianti Classico 2007 (Italy), and plates of eggplant and zucchini involtini with a simple mixed salad on the side. The Petronius has lots of fruit with a medium range of tannins and good structure to complement the marinara that formed the base for the involtini. I also think that a lighter red, like a soft, not-too-assertive zinfandel or a rounder, richer pinot noir would have been good accompaniment.
The involtini are relatively simple and I've used some shortcuts which don't compromise quality, but this dish does involve a longer process than you might think, so I've written out the recipe to indicate where you could make them ahead and then finish the final steps when you're ready to cook and serve them. They are fabulously light and flavorful, and impressively beautiful on the plate in their pool of marinara sauce. I garnished them with fresh basil leaves and they made a very elegant supper indeed. I hope you enjoy them as much as we did.
Involtini a la rustica
1 large zucchini
2 medium eggplant
olive oil
kosher salt
freshly ground pepper
32 oz. ricotta cheese
1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese (reserve 2 Tbs. for finishing)
2 eggs, beaten
1/4 cup chopped arugula, spinach or parsley (or a combination)
1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp. onion powder
1/4 tsp. garlic powder
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 1/2 cups panko (reserve 2 Tbs. for finishing)
1 Tbs. finely minced parsley (or 1 tsp. dried)
3 cups good-quality marinara sauce (or make your own)
extra virgin olive oil for drizzling
basil leaves for garnish
1. Wash and trim the stem-ends of the eggplant and the zucchini.
2. Cut both vegetables lengthwise into long slabs about 1/4 wide. Don't worry if your cuts are imperfect; you can piece slices together later.
3. Brush both sides of the vegetable slices generously with olive oil and place on baking sheets. Season generously with salt and pepper.
4. Roast in oven at 375 degrees until softened and slightly caramelized, about 20 minutes. Do not let the slices get crispy--they must stay pliable.
5. Set aside vegetable slices to cool while you prepare the filling: combine ricotta, parmesan (less 2 Tbs.), eggs, nutmeg, onion powder and garlic powder.
6. Mix well and then season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper.
7. Lay a cooled vegetable slice vertically on a flat surface. Put about 2 Tbs. filling at the widest end and roll vegetable slice up around the filling, placing seam-side down in a well-oiled baking dish. Continue with remaining vegetable slices, piecing together as necessary.
You can prepare this dish ahead to this point, then cover and chill the involtini until you are ready to finish and serve them. Prepare up to 24 hours ahead if you'd like.
8. Measure the panko into a shallow dish, setting aside 2 Tbs. for finishing.
9. Roll each involtini in the panko and replace in baking dish.
10. Combine reserved parmesan, reserved panko, and minced parsley. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper.
11. Sprinkle panko/parmesan mixture over involtini.
12. Bake uncovered at 375 degrees for about 25 minutes, or until tops of involtini are lightly golden and crisped.
13. Meanwhile, gently heat marinara sauce.
14. To serve: place a pool of warm marinara on a plate or shallow dish. Arrange involtini on top of the marinara. Drizzle with olive oil and garnish with basil leaves. Serves 6.
Showing posts with label eggplant. Show all posts
Showing posts with label eggplant. Show all posts
Saturday, October 22, 2011
Saturday, March 26, 2011
This chick is twisted, but in a good way
OK, I admit that I eat unusual food. But I've come by my predilections honestly, having been literally schooled at the knee of my epicurean grandfather, who fed me my first oil-cured olive at the tender age of 5. Following that, I was fed morsels of whatever stinky cheese he had brought home from the deli, along with bites of dolmas, garlicky salami, broiled bluefish and huge garlic dill pickles. After that, I fell totally into debauchery at his hands--black bread wth unsalted butter, blood sausage, pickled herring, sopressata, strong green tea with a wedge of lime, leg of lamb with garlic and rosemary, endive braised with olive oil, garlic and lemon, a bottomless pot of espresso (always in the Bialetti stovetop pot), yaki tori, felafel...you name it, my grandfather ate it and fed it to me as well. I do have to say, however, that resisting the urge to run away from home while enduring the process of homemade sauerkraut and homemade kimchi was a challange. Those were nearly intolerable odors when the house was filled with them for days during my grandparents' summer visits.
Whether my palate was born or made is still debatable. What is very clear, however, is that I prefer and often crave foods that are outside the norm. Acid, heat, pungency, herbaceousness, earthiness and especially umami--I really like cooking and eating off the beaten path. So when I was expecting a friend for dinner earlier in the week and asked what she was wanting to eat, her immediately response was "Laap kai." For the uninitiated, laap kai is a Thai salad made with ground chicken, chilies, lime juice and fresh herbs. But what really makes it very different is the ground roasted rice that gives a slightly crunchy texture and a nutty taste when it gets mixed in with the warm chicken. Then the chicken mixture is served on lettuce leaves and garnished with cucumber, scallions, Chinese long beans and more herbs and lime. It's a delightful spring and summer salad and is often eated by the Thai as a lettuce wrap.
I also made and served a green papaya salad. I've eaten this salad countless times in restaurants but have never attempted to make it. I saw a huge box of green papayas when I was shopping at M & T Market last weekend and decided that this was my chance to tackle a favorite at home. The long shreds of pale, green papaya are beautiful glistening in their honey/chili/garlic/lime juice dressing and studded with peanuts, chopped fresh cilantro and Thai basil. This salad is relatively simple to make and tastes great the next day too.
We started the evening with a cocktail I can't wait to make again. It sets the stage for an evening of Thai cuisine with lime juice, basil and gin. It's cool and refreshing, and easy to make if you can prep a little ahead. I call it a Thai Gimlet. Here's the recipe:
Thai Gimlet
6 oz. Tangueray Rangpur Lime Gin
2 oz. dry (white) vermouth
2 oz. fresh lime juice
3 oz. basil syrup (recipe follows)
8 basil leaves, sliced crosswise very thinly (use Thai basil for licorice flavor or Italian basil for a more straightforward basil flavor)
Green grapes, basil leaves and thin lime slices for garnish, arranged on a cocktail pick or short skewer
Combine gin, vermouth, lime juice, basil syrup and basil leaves in a bar shaker. Stir well. Fill two tall glasses with ice. Divide cocktail mixture between the two glasses. Garnish with cocktail picks as suggested above. Serves 2.
Basil Syrup
Combine 1 tsp. dried basil with 1/2 cup sugar and 1/2 cup water. Bring to boil and boil for 2 minutes. Cool to room temperature and strain before using. Freeze any leftovers.
******************************************
My Thai food-loving friend also came back later in the week and we repeated the cocktail ritual with great gusto, but this time we ate Jade Curry with Beef, Eggplant and Green Chili, Cucumber Salad with Cilantro and Mint, and Coconut Corn Ice Cream. I know that the dessert will surprise some of you, but the combination of sweet coconut and corn is a Thai favorite. So below, you'll find five recipes, the three I just mentioned, then Laap Kai and Green Papaya Salad. Be adventurous and try them!
And how could I forget the wine that we drank with the curry? One of my point-on wine guys at Spec's helped me deliberate over the right wine to serve. What I eventually settled on was a rose. Carmela Benegas 2010 (Argentina) is fermented entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes, one of my favorite varietals. At well under $10 a bottle, it has a fairly high alcohol content (13.5%) and enough sweetness to bolster the heat and intensity of the curry. The first thing I noted was that it smelled literally of roses; my friend noted cherry and strawberry, which were also present. It is a very fruit-forward, intensely flavored wine and you will definitely taste lots of strawberry. It is a gorgeous deep coral color in the glass. I have never described a wine as sexy before, but this wine is sexy. Remember Roman Polanski's movie Tess and Natasha Kinski during the strawberry scene? Yeah, it's that kind of sexy.
Jade Curry with Beef, Eggplant and Green Chili
The original recipe, adapted from Victor Sodsook's True Thai, called for 6 serrano chilies, cut in half, but not seeded. They are not intended to be eaten, but they did flavor this curry very intensely and although I can truly claim to be a chili-head, the amount of chili pushed the boundaries of my Scoville unit tolerance! So I've reduced the amount called for here to help tone down the heat. This curry is excellent reheated the next day, but the heat will have intensified, so those of you shy of chilies may want to leave out the serranos all together.
2 cans unsweetened coconut milk
1 cup green curry paste (you can make your own--contact me for a recipe--or
use prepared curry paste such as Mae Ploy brand, which can be found at
well-stocked Asian markets)
1 1/2 lbs. sirloin, sliced across the grain 1/4" thick (approx. 1" X 2" pieces)
1/4 cup golden brown sugar
1/4 cup fish sauce (nam pla can be found at Asian markets)
1 lb. Japanese or Thai eggplant (or combination), stemmed and sliced into
1/4" slices
1 large green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and sliced into 1/4" slices
2 to 3 medium serrano chilies, stemmed and sliced in half lengthwise (remove
seeds if you'd like considerably less heat)
1 cup loosely packed Thai basil leaves (or substitute purple or Italian basil)
1. Skim the thick cream from the top of the coconut milk into a medium-large
sized kettle or soup pot. Set remaining coconut milk aside.
2. Over medium-high heat, stir in curry paste until well blended and bring to a
simmer. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 2 minutes.
3. Stir in the beef and the remaining coconut milk. Bring to a simmer, stirring
occasionally.
4. Add the brown sugar and the fish sauce. Stir until the sugar is dissolved
and all is blended.
5. Stir in the eggplant and sweet green pepper. Cook for about 2 minutes.
6. Add the serranos and return to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Cook for
about 2 minutes.
7. Turn off the heat, cover and let sit for a few minutes.
8. Just before serving, stir in the basil leaves, or use them to garnish if you
are transferring the curry to a serving bowl. Serve with plenty of hot
jasmine rice. Serves 6 to 8.
Cucumber Salad with Cilantro and Mint
2 cucumbers, peeled and sliced into 1/4" slices
2 to 3 Tbs. honey
juice of 1 lime
salt to taste
2 Tbs. chopped cilantro
2 Tbs. chopped mint
1/4 cup plain dry-roasted peanuts, chopped or crushed
1. Arrange cucumber slices on a serving platter.
2. Drizzle cucumbers with honey and lime juice.
3. Salt to taste.
4. Sprinkle with chopped herbs.
5. Sprinkle with chopped/crushed peanuts. Serves 4.
Coconut Corn Ice Cream
2 pints good-quality vanilla ice cream, slightly softened
1/2 cup shredded, sweetened coconut
1/2 cup fresh sweet corn kernels (in the absence of fresh corn, use the sweetest, most tender
corn kernels available. Canned corn is acceptable, but its color is dull. If you use it, make
sure it is well-drained).
Blend all ingredients together with a mixer (or use a spatula and be quick about it!). Pack into a container and freeze until time to serve. Serves 4.
Laap Kai
You will need to plan to make the ground roasted rice ahead of time. This recipe is a compilation of several and relies heavily on suggestions from my friend, whose's mother makes this dish for the family frequently. You can also make this dish with ground turkey and it is really excellent with ground pork, which would then be called Laap Mu.
2 cups ground chicken breast, with a little skin and fat mixed in (if you can't find ground
chicken breast at your grocery store, chop boneless chicken breasts yourself if you have
a food processor)
2 jalapenos, stemmed, seeded and minced (or substitute 1 Tbs. dried crushed red chili)
4 Tbs. fresh lime juice
3 Tbs. fish sauce (nam pla can be found at Asian markets)
2 to 3 Tbs. ground roasted rice
2 Tbs. thinly sliced shallots
1/2 cup chopped fresh herbs such as mint, cilantro, or sawtooth herb
2 to 3 kaffir lime leaves, finely chopped (optional)
Lettuce leaves (such as Boston lettuce, green leaf lettuce or Buttercrunch)
Chinese long beans, blanched and chilled
Shredded Chinese cabbage
Cucumber slices
Sliced scallions
Cherry or grape tomatoes
Cilantro, mint and/or sawtooth herb for garnish
Lime wedges
1. Mix 2 Tbs. lime with the ground chicken.
2. Using a little oil if necessary, cook the chicken and the minced jalapenos in a wok over
medium heat, stirring until chicken is fully cooked. It will not brown, so don't overcook it
or it will be dry.
3. Stir in the rest of the lime juice along with the fish sauce, the ground roasted rice, sliced
shallots, chopped herbs, and kaffir lime leaves (if using). Blend well and taste and correct
for seasoning.
4. Serve chicken mixture as a lettuce wrap along with the other vegetables, or line a serving
platter with the lettuce leaves, pile the chicken mixture on top and arrange the other
vegetables around the platter.
5. Garnish with extra herbs and pass lime wedges. Serves 4.
Ground Roasted Rice
Heat oven to 375 degrees. Place 1 cup Thai glutinous or "sticky" rice on a dry baking sheet. Roast rice in the oven for about 1 hour or longer. It should look like the color of toasted sesame seeds when it is done. Cool rice, then grind in a food processor or blender, or use a mortar and pestle to pound rice to about cornmeal consistency. Store extra ground rice airtight. It will keep for several weeks. Makes a scant 1 cup.
Green Papaya Salad
This is a simplified version of Victor Sodsook's recipes in True Thai. You can also find many versions on the internet, including Vietnamese-style, which I especially love for chopped the Asain beef jerky. Note: there is an easy way and a hard way to shred the papaya. If you shred it lengthwise (from stem end to blossom end), your job will be much quicker!
1 large green papaya
3 to 4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
3 to 4 small Thai chilies, stemmed and roughly chopped
2 Tbs. mild honey (such as clover or orange blossom)
3 Tbs. fish sauce (nam pla can be found at Asian markets)
6 Tbs. fresh lime juice
1/4 cup chopped cilantro and/or Thai basil
1/2 cup dry roasted unsalted peanuts, crushed or finely chopped
1. Peel the papaya with a sharp paring knife or vegetable peeler, then cut it in half lengthwise.
2. Scoop out and discard the seeds, along with any white membrane.
3. Using a mandoline with a julienne attachment, or a food processor with a shredding disc,
shred the papaya. Set aside or chill until ready to serve.
4. Pound the chillies and garlic together in a mortar and mash well.
5. Blend in the honey and the fish sauce with the pestle.
6. Use a large spoon to scrape down the sides of the mortar and to help dissolve any
remaining sugar.
7. Add the lime juice and mix well.
8. Arrange the shredded papaya in a shallow bowl and pour the honey-lime-chile dressing over
the papaya. Toss well.
9. Sprinkle with chopped herbs.
10. Sprinkle with peanuts. Serves 4.
Whether my palate was born or made is still debatable. What is very clear, however, is that I prefer and often crave foods that are outside the norm. Acid, heat, pungency, herbaceousness, earthiness and especially umami--I really like cooking and eating off the beaten path. So when I was expecting a friend for dinner earlier in the week and asked what she was wanting to eat, her immediately response was "Laap kai." For the uninitiated, laap kai is a Thai salad made with ground chicken, chilies, lime juice and fresh herbs. But what really makes it very different is the ground roasted rice that gives a slightly crunchy texture and a nutty taste when it gets mixed in with the warm chicken. Then the chicken mixture is served on lettuce leaves and garnished with cucumber, scallions, Chinese long beans and more herbs and lime. It's a delightful spring and summer salad and is often eated by the Thai as a lettuce wrap.
I also made and served a green papaya salad. I've eaten this salad countless times in restaurants but have never attempted to make it. I saw a huge box of green papayas when I was shopping at M & T Market last weekend and decided that this was my chance to tackle a favorite at home. The long shreds of pale, green papaya are beautiful glistening in their honey/chili/garlic/lime juice dressing and studded with peanuts, chopped fresh cilantro and Thai basil. This salad is relatively simple to make and tastes great the next day too.
We started the evening with a cocktail I can't wait to make again. It sets the stage for an evening of Thai cuisine with lime juice, basil and gin. It's cool and refreshing, and easy to make if you can prep a little ahead. I call it a Thai Gimlet. Here's the recipe:
Thai Gimlet
6 oz. Tangueray Rangpur Lime Gin
2 oz. dry (white) vermouth
2 oz. fresh lime juice
3 oz. basil syrup (recipe follows)
8 basil leaves, sliced crosswise very thinly (use Thai basil for licorice flavor or Italian basil for a more straightforward basil flavor)
Green grapes, basil leaves and thin lime slices for garnish, arranged on a cocktail pick or short skewer
Combine gin, vermouth, lime juice, basil syrup and basil leaves in a bar shaker. Stir well. Fill two tall glasses with ice. Divide cocktail mixture between the two glasses. Garnish with cocktail picks as suggested above. Serves 2.
Basil Syrup
Combine 1 tsp. dried basil with 1/2 cup sugar and 1/2 cup water. Bring to boil and boil for 2 minutes. Cool to room temperature and strain before using. Freeze any leftovers.
******************************************
My Thai food-loving friend also came back later in the week and we repeated the cocktail ritual with great gusto, but this time we ate Jade Curry with Beef, Eggplant and Green Chili, Cucumber Salad with Cilantro and Mint, and Coconut Corn Ice Cream. I know that the dessert will surprise some of you, but the combination of sweet coconut and corn is a Thai favorite. So below, you'll find five recipes, the three I just mentioned, then Laap Kai and Green Papaya Salad. Be adventurous and try them!
And how could I forget the wine that we drank with the curry? One of my point-on wine guys at Spec's helped me deliberate over the right wine to serve. What I eventually settled on was a rose. Carmela Benegas 2010 (Argentina) is fermented entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes, one of my favorite varietals. At well under $10 a bottle, it has a fairly high alcohol content (13.5%) and enough sweetness to bolster the heat and intensity of the curry. The first thing I noted was that it smelled literally of roses; my friend noted cherry and strawberry, which were also present. It is a very fruit-forward, intensely flavored wine and you will definitely taste lots of strawberry. It is a gorgeous deep coral color in the glass. I have never described a wine as sexy before, but this wine is sexy. Remember Roman Polanski's movie Tess and Natasha Kinski during the strawberry scene? Yeah, it's that kind of sexy.
Jade Curry with Beef, Eggplant and Green Chili
The original recipe, adapted from Victor Sodsook's True Thai, called for 6 serrano chilies, cut in half, but not seeded. They are not intended to be eaten, but they did flavor this curry very intensely and although I can truly claim to be a chili-head, the amount of chili pushed the boundaries of my Scoville unit tolerance! So I've reduced the amount called for here to help tone down the heat. This curry is excellent reheated the next day, but the heat will have intensified, so those of you shy of chilies may want to leave out the serranos all together.
2 cans unsweetened coconut milk
1 cup green curry paste (you can make your own--contact me for a recipe--or
use prepared curry paste such as Mae Ploy brand, which can be found at
well-stocked Asian markets)
1 1/2 lbs. sirloin, sliced across the grain 1/4" thick (approx. 1" X 2" pieces)
1/4 cup golden brown sugar
1/4 cup fish sauce (nam pla can be found at Asian markets)
1 lb. Japanese or Thai eggplant (or combination), stemmed and sliced into
1/4" slices
1 large green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and sliced into 1/4" slices
2 to 3 medium serrano chilies, stemmed and sliced in half lengthwise (remove
seeds if you'd like considerably less heat)
1 cup loosely packed Thai basil leaves (or substitute purple or Italian basil)
1. Skim the thick cream from the top of the coconut milk into a medium-large
sized kettle or soup pot. Set remaining coconut milk aside.
2. Over medium-high heat, stir in curry paste until well blended and bring to a
simmer. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 2 minutes.
3. Stir in the beef and the remaining coconut milk. Bring to a simmer, stirring
occasionally.
4. Add the brown sugar and the fish sauce. Stir until the sugar is dissolved
and all is blended.
5. Stir in the eggplant and sweet green pepper. Cook for about 2 minutes.
6. Add the serranos and return to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Cook for
about 2 minutes.
7. Turn off the heat, cover and let sit for a few minutes.
8. Just before serving, stir in the basil leaves, or use them to garnish if you
are transferring the curry to a serving bowl. Serve with plenty of hot
jasmine rice. Serves 6 to 8.
Cucumber Salad with Cilantro and Mint
2 cucumbers, peeled and sliced into 1/4" slices
2 to 3 Tbs. honey
juice of 1 lime
salt to taste
2 Tbs. chopped cilantro
2 Tbs. chopped mint
1/4 cup plain dry-roasted peanuts, chopped or crushed
1. Arrange cucumber slices on a serving platter.
2. Drizzle cucumbers with honey and lime juice.
3. Salt to taste.
4. Sprinkle with chopped herbs.
5. Sprinkle with chopped/crushed peanuts. Serves 4.
Coconut Corn Ice Cream
2 pints good-quality vanilla ice cream, slightly softened
1/2 cup shredded, sweetened coconut
1/2 cup fresh sweet corn kernels (in the absence of fresh corn, use the sweetest, most tender
corn kernels available. Canned corn is acceptable, but its color is dull. If you use it, make
sure it is well-drained).
Blend all ingredients together with a mixer (or use a spatula and be quick about it!). Pack into a container and freeze until time to serve. Serves 4.
Laap Kai
You will need to plan to make the ground roasted rice ahead of time. This recipe is a compilation of several and relies heavily on suggestions from my friend, whose's mother makes this dish for the family frequently. You can also make this dish with ground turkey and it is really excellent with ground pork, which would then be called Laap Mu.
2 cups ground chicken breast, with a little skin and fat mixed in (if you can't find ground
chicken breast at your grocery store, chop boneless chicken breasts yourself if you have
a food processor)
2 jalapenos, stemmed, seeded and minced (or substitute 1 Tbs. dried crushed red chili)
4 Tbs. fresh lime juice
3 Tbs. fish sauce (nam pla can be found at Asian markets)
2 to 3 Tbs. ground roasted rice
2 Tbs. thinly sliced shallots
1/2 cup chopped fresh herbs such as mint, cilantro, or sawtooth herb
2 to 3 kaffir lime leaves, finely chopped (optional)
Lettuce leaves (such as Boston lettuce, green leaf lettuce or Buttercrunch)
Chinese long beans, blanched and chilled
Shredded Chinese cabbage
Cucumber slices
Sliced scallions
Cherry or grape tomatoes
Cilantro, mint and/or sawtooth herb for garnish
Lime wedges
1. Mix 2 Tbs. lime with the ground chicken.
2. Using a little oil if necessary, cook the chicken and the minced jalapenos in a wok over
medium heat, stirring until chicken is fully cooked. It will not brown, so don't overcook it
or it will be dry.
3. Stir in the rest of the lime juice along with the fish sauce, the ground roasted rice, sliced
shallots, chopped herbs, and kaffir lime leaves (if using). Blend well and taste and correct
for seasoning.
4. Serve chicken mixture as a lettuce wrap along with the other vegetables, or line a serving
platter with the lettuce leaves, pile the chicken mixture on top and arrange the other
vegetables around the platter.
5. Garnish with extra herbs and pass lime wedges. Serves 4.
Ground Roasted Rice
Heat oven to 375 degrees. Place 1 cup Thai glutinous or "sticky" rice on a dry baking sheet. Roast rice in the oven for about 1 hour or longer. It should look like the color of toasted sesame seeds when it is done. Cool rice, then grind in a food processor or blender, or use a mortar and pestle to pound rice to about cornmeal consistency. Store extra ground rice airtight. It will keep for several weeks. Makes a scant 1 cup.
Green Papaya Salad
This is a simplified version of Victor Sodsook's recipes in True Thai. You can also find many versions on the internet, including Vietnamese-style, which I especially love for chopped the Asain beef jerky. Note: there is an easy way and a hard way to shred the papaya. If you shred it lengthwise (from stem end to blossom end), your job will be much quicker!
1 large green papaya
3 to 4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
3 to 4 small Thai chilies, stemmed and roughly chopped
2 Tbs. mild honey (such as clover or orange blossom)
3 Tbs. fish sauce (nam pla can be found at Asian markets)
6 Tbs. fresh lime juice
1/4 cup chopped cilantro and/or Thai basil
1/2 cup dry roasted unsalted peanuts, crushed or finely chopped
1. Peel the papaya with a sharp paring knife or vegetable peeler, then cut it in half lengthwise.
2. Scoop out and discard the seeds, along with any white membrane.
3. Using a mandoline with a julienne attachment, or a food processor with a shredding disc,
shred the papaya. Set aside or chill until ready to serve.
4. Pound the chillies and garlic together in a mortar and mash well.
5. Blend in the honey and the fish sauce with the pestle.
6. Use a large spoon to scrape down the sides of the mortar and to help dissolve any
remaining sugar.
7. Add the lime juice and mix well.
8. Arrange the shredded papaya in a shallow bowl and pour the honey-lime-chile dressing over
the papaya. Toss well.
9. Sprinkle with chopped herbs.
10. Sprinkle with peanuts. Serves 4.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
You are now leaving your comfort zone
OK, kids, we've been lolling around the culinary warm waters quite awhile now. And now that I've reeled you in, I want to take you on a little diversion. Sure, the familiar is great, it's comforting. But it can also get tiresome if you're the least bit inclined to be a culinary adventurer, unafraid to color outside the lines, live large and think outside the Jack-in-the-Box.
I cannot remember when I was first drawn to the culture of India and its surrounding Asian cousins, but the pull is strong and deep. For many years, I have been convinced that I have had another life in India, because the craving for the complex layers of spices and fiery chilies can only be satiated by totally immersing myself in about three weeks of intensive cooking this incredibly imaginative cuisine. I could happily be a vegetarian if I had assistance with food prep because the varieties of vegetable curries, sambars and dals is endless. And I could sing an aria about my love for basmati rice, a long-grained non-sticky rice which is wonderfully fragrant in a nutty, slightly floral way. In fact, the Sanskit word for this kind of rice means "fragrant one," and it is the basis for many aromatic and delectable dishes such as biryanis and pulaos, not to mention kheer, the Indian rice pudding that is scented with saffron and cardamom and often studded with golden raisins and pistachios or cashews. On board yet?
I will want to share my love of other Asian cuisines with you in future, but today I offer some of the foods I've been craving and preparing this week. The dal recipe I've included is aromatic, mild and is one of the most simple to put together with common ingredients in your pantry. But this is just the beginning, because dal (Sanskrit for "to split) is a generic term for any kind of dried split legume or whole pulse/bean/pea such as garbanzo (or chana dal), pigeon peas (or toor dal), or red lentils (masoor dal). The combinations and varieties are virtually endless.
I've also included a recipe for spinach that incorporates the rich flavor of coconut and warm spices without the typical American association of sweetness. Coconut oil is actually a very healthful cooking oil and is valued for its its antibacterial and antifungal properties (among other things) as well as its flavor. In India, coconut oil is used mostly in the western regions, near Kerala (where the best bananas in the world are grown!) and the coastal regions, which rely on fish and seafood for protein in addition to the legumes that are a staple in most Indian diets.
The third recipe is for a silky, fragrant, and moderately fiery eggplant curry that actually originated in Sri Lanka, the island off the southeastern tip of India. This is more of a "dry" curry than the ones you may have eaten that are typically more like a soup or stew. But dry curries are popular on the main continent of India as well, so this will be an introduction for you. I would highly recommend that you try any of these dishes with basmati rice.
What kind of wine could you serve? Dry or off-dry whites with fruity, floral and aromatic qualities are what seem to harmonize best. So my first pick would be a dry reisling, a dry gewurtztraminer or a gruner veltliner. What I had last night was a blend of varietals called One 2007 (Alsace). I can't describe this wine any better than it describes itself on the back label: "...a fusion of delicate floral aromas with fresh fruit flavors...crisp, dry, and well-bodied..." In other words VERY YUMMY AND REFRESHINGLY CRISP. Don't overchill this wine! In fact, don't overchill any white wine. I made the mistake of speed-chilling in my freezer (naughty, naughty) to too low a temperature. It took a long time for this wine to open up and release its lovely characteristics, but when it did, it complemented my meal very well. Thank you oh so very much, wine guy extraordinaire at Spec's!
Finally, there are two introductory cookbooks I would recommend if you too get bitten by the India bug. The first is a small, hard to find and possibly out of print paperback called Curries Without Worries by Sudha Koul. This is a great little book to start you out gently in the ways of Indian cookery. The second is a more recent book entitled 660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer. It has a mind-blowing array of recipes that are very doable for the novice. Both books are wonderfully helpful and charming to read.
Ap ka khana svadista ho! That's Hindi for bon appetit!
This dal freezes beautifully and is mildly spicy. You can adjust the heat by increasing or decreasing the chilies. You can also gently toast the spices to incorporate a smokier flavor.
1 cup lentils (can use brown lentils, French lentils, red or yellow lentils)
6 cups water
salt to taste
3 ripe medium-size tomatoes, chopped (when I'm in a hurry, I use canned)
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbs. fresh ginger, finely chopped or grated (peel with a vegetable peeler first or scrub well)
4 Tbs. ghee (clarified butter) or oil
1 tsp. tumeric
1 tsp. cumin seeds
2 dry hot red peppers
chopped fresh coriander and plain yoghurt for garnish
Put all ingredients except coriander and yoghurt in a medium-size soup pot and bring to a boil on high heat. Reduce heat to low and cook until lentils are tender. This takes about 30 minutes, or more if lentils are older and tougher. At this stage, you can use an immersion blender (or regular blender) to partially puree the dal.
When the dal is done, serve it will coriander and yoghurt along with rice or chapatis (Indian griddle breads similar to pitas). Serves 4-6 people.
I cannot remember when I was first drawn to the culture of India and its surrounding Asian cousins, but the pull is strong and deep. For many years, I have been convinced that I have had another life in India, because the craving for the complex layers of spices and fiery chilies can only be satiated by totally immersing myself in about three weeks of intensive cooking this incredibly imaginative cuisine. I could happily be a vegetarian if I had assistance with food prep because the varieties of vegetable curries, sambars and dals is endless. And I could sing an aria about my love for basmati rice, a long-grained non-sticky rice which is wonderfully fragrant in a nutty, slightly floral way. In fact, the Sanskit word for this kind of rice means "fragrant one," and it is the basis for many aromatic and delectable dishes such as biryanis and pulaos, not to mention kheer, the Indian rice pudding that is scented with saffron and cardamom and often studded with golden raisins and pistachios or cashews. On board yet?
I will want to share my love of other Asian cuisines with you in future, but today I offer some of the foods I've been craving and preparing this week. The dal recipe I've included is aromatic, mild and is one of the most simple to put together with common ingredients in your pantry. But this is just the beginning, because dal (Sanskrit for "to split) is a generic term for any kind of dried split legume or whole pulse/bean/pea such as garbanzo (or chana dal), pigeon peas (or toor dal), or red lentils (masoor dal). The combinations and varieties are virtually endless.
I've also included a recipe for spinach that incorporates the rich flavor of coconut and warm spices without the typical American association of sweetness. Coconut oil is actually a very healthful cooking oil and is valued for its its antibacterial and antifungal properties (among other things) as well as its flavor. In India, coconut oil is used mostly in the western regions, near Kerala (where the best bananas in the world are grown!) and the coastal regions, which rely on fish and seafood for protein in addition to the legumes that are a staple in most Indian diets.
The third recipe is for a silky, fragrant, and moderately fiery eggplant curry that actually originated in Sri Lanka, the island off the southeastern tip of India. This is more of a "dry" curry than the ones you may have eaten that are typically more like a soup or stew. But dry curries are popular on the main continent of India as well, so this will be an introduction for you. I would highly recommend that you try any of these dishes with basmati rice.
What kind of wine could you serve? Dry or off-dry whites with fruity, floral and aromatic qualities are what seem to harmonize best. So my first pick would be a dry reisling, a dry gewurtztraminer or a gruner veltliner. What I had last night was a blend of varietals called One 2007 (Alsace). I can't describe this wine any better than it describes itself on the back label: "...a fusion of delicate floral aromas with fresh fruit flavors...crisp, dry, and well-bodied..." In other words VERY YUMMY AND REFRESHINGLY CRISP. Don't overchill this wine! In fact, don't overchill any white wine. I made the mistake of speed-chilling in my freezer (naughty, naughty) to too low a temperature. It took a long time for this wine to open up and release its lovely characteristics, but when it did, it complemented my meal very well. Thank you oh so very much, wine guy extraordinaire at Spec's!
Finally, there are two introductory cookbooks I would recommend if you too get bitten by the India bug. The first is a small, hard to find and possibly out of print paperback called Curries Without Worries by Sudha Koul. This is a great little book to start you out gently in the ways of Indian cookery. The second is a more recent book entitled 660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer. It has a mind-blowing array of recipes that are very doable for the novice. Both books are wonderfully helpful and charming to read.
Ap ka khana svadista ho! That's Hindi for bon appetit!
TRULY DELICIOUS EVERYDAY DAL
This dal freezes beautifully and is mildly spicy. You can adjust the heat by increasing or decreasing the chilies. You can also gently toast the spices to incorporate a smokier flavor.
1 cup lentils (can use brown lentils, French lentils, red or yellow lentils)
6 cups water
salt to taste
3 ripe medium-size tomatoes, chopped (when I'm in a hurry, I use canned)
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbs. fresh ginger, finely chopped or grated (peel with a vegetable peeler first or scrub well)
4 Tbs. ghee (clarified butter) or oil
1 tsp. tumeric
1 tsp. cumin seeds
2 dry hot red peppers
chopped fresh coriander and plain yoghurt for garnish
Put all ingredients except coriander and yoghurt in a medium-size soup pot and bring to a boil on high heat. Reduce heat to low and cook until lentils are tender. This takes about 30 minutes, or more if lentils are older and tougher. At this stage, you can use an immersion blender (or regular blender) to partially puree the dal.
When the dal is done, serve it will coriander and yoghurt along with rice or chapatis (Indian griddle breads similar to pitas). Serves 4-6 people.
Vambotu Curry
Sri Lankan Eggplant Curry (from Madhur Jaffrey’s World Vegetarian)
The beauty of this vegetarian curry is in the toasted spices that cling to the eggplant. Coconut milk mellows the heat and an optional yogurt and cilantro garnish will cool the heat index down a bit. Serve this curry with basmati or jasmine rice. Make it as hot as you like—you can add up to 2 teaspoons of cayenne pepper. To really get the full impact of this dish, grind your spices fresh (and separately) if you have a clean coffee mill.
1 lb. eggplant (this is lovely with any kind of eggplant: Japanese, Italian, white, or a combination of any)
2 Tbs. peanut or other mild oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground coriander
¼ tsp. ground turmeric
½ tsp. ground fennel
½ tsp. ground cayenne (or up to 2 tsp. if desired)
4 tsp. fresh lime or lemon juice
1 small cinnamon stick
15 fresh curry leaves (or substitute Thai basil if in season if you must)
1 small onion (approx. 2 oz.) peeled and cut into fine half-rings
¾ cup coconut milk from a well-stirred can
2 tsp. ground brown mustard seeds
Greek yogurt (optional)
Chopped cilantro (optional)
1. Preheat oven to 475 degrees.
2. Cut the eggplant into ½ inch slices, then cut each slice into wedges about 1 inch in size. For larger eggplants, you will get between 4 to 8 wedges per slice, depending on the size of the eggplant. Put the eggplant wedges in a large bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper, then add cumin, coriander, turmeric, fennel, and cayenne. Drizzle with 1 Tbs. oil and toss everything together until eggplant pieces are coated with spices and oil.
3. Spread eggplant pieces on a large baking sheet and roast in oven for about 15 to 20 minutes. The eggplant should take on a reddish tone and the spices should become very fragrant. If it doesn’t seem toasted enough, turn on the broiler unit and finish toasting, watching carefully so eggplant doesn’t burn.
4. Remove roasted eggplant from oven and return to bowl; drizzle with fresh lime juice and toss gently. Set aside.
5. Put the remaining 1 Tbs. oil in a large frying pan or wok (non-stick works best) and set over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, put in the cinnamon stick and very quickly after that, the curry leaves.
6. Stir and put in the onion, continuing to stir-fry for about 2 minutes, or until onion has browned a bit.
7. Put in the seasoned eggplant, stirring and tossing for about 4 minutes.
8. Combine the coconut milk with the mustard seeds and pour over the eggplant. As soon as the mixture starts to bubble, turn heat to medium-low and cook, uncovered, for 3 minutes, stirring gently now and then.
9. Check for seasoning and correct for salt, cayenne and lime.
10. Serve hot with rice. To garnish, scatter with cilantro leaves. Yogurt on the side will cool the spiciness if you desire. Serves 3 to 4.
Coconut Spinach
Think nutty, creamy, and addictive. The coconut oil adds great depth and the yogurt adds creaminess and tang. Make this side dish as hot as you would like.
1 heaping Tbs. virgin coconut oil (such as Central Market Organics brand)
1/3 cup finely chopped onion
½ tsp. kosher salt
1 lb. baby spinach leaves
¼ tsp. plus 1 pinch garam masala (you can find this in an Indian grocery store
or at Fiesta Market; alternatively, contact me for recipes to make your
own fresher tasting, very easily)
1/8 tsp. (or more) ground cayenne pepper
½ cup Greek yogurt (you can strain any good quality plain yogurt with equally
good results)
2 Tbs. unsweetened dessicated coconut, optional (this is not the same as Baker’s coconut, which is sweetened; you can find this at an Indian grocery store or Fiesta Market)
1. Heat coconut oil in large skillet or wok over medium-high heat until rippling; add chopped onion and salt. Saute until onions are slightly caramelized, being careful not to burn.
2. Add spinach leaves and cover to create steam, lifting cover to stir spinach occasionally. Continue to steam and stir until spinach is wilted and coated with coconut oil and onion mixture.
3. Add garam masala and cayenne and stir well; add Greek yogurt and heat through, stirring well. Yogurt will create a creamy sauce. Garnish with unsweetened coconut, if desired. Serves 4.
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