It's too darn hot

It's too darn hot,
It's too darn hot.
I'd like to coo with my baby tonight,
And pitch some woo with my baby tonight.
I'd like to coo with my baby tonight,
And pitch some woo with my baby tonight,
But brother, you bite my baby tonight,
'Cause it's too darn hot.
                                                                              ~ Cole Porter's Kiss Me Kate (1948) ~


August in Central Texas.  You may as well book a one-way ticket to Hades on a flight with no beverage service.  Not only are we in the midst of severe drought, it is hotter than all get-out.  In fact, we have had nearly seventy days of 100 degree-plus heat as of this week.  And tomorrow?  More of the same, only we'll get to break a record for the most 100 degree-plus days in Texas since 1925.  Our water bill has tripled as we struggle to keep our back yard green.  Our electricity bill?  We won't even go there...

In the intense heat, appetites decline, tempers flare, and willingness to be cooperative and a good sport are replaced by irritability, anxiety and high need for distraction.  Although I'm not claiming to have the universal panacea for this heat-induced malaise, I will put forth my suggestion that eating cold, summery foods and sipping light, summery wines does take one's mind off the beastly reality of this particular Texas summer.  A friend recently commented that all he wanted to eat lately was cold food and drink his way through a case of white wine.  And to that I raise my wine glass and say, "Huzzah!"

Here's what I've been enjoying recently:

Zucchini Carpaccio with Roasted Tomatoes and Lemon

    This light, lemony salad is beautiful on the plate and refreshingly bracing on the palate.

1 cup grape or cherry tomatoes
1/4 cup EVOO, divided
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 medium zucchini, ends trimmed
1 1/2 tsp. lemon zest
2 Tbs. lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper


1.  Roast the tomatoes:  Place tomatoes on a small baking sheet and drizzle with some of the EVOO.  Salt and pepper generously.  Bake at 375 degrees for about 25 to 30 minutes, or until caramelized.  Set aside to cool.
2.  Slice zucchini into thin ribbons, using a mandoline.  Alternatively, cut into very thin rounds with a sharp knife and drop into a large bowl.
3.  Add roasted tomatoes and remaining EVOO.
4.  Add lemon zest and lemon juice, stirring gently to blend flavors.
5.  Season generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Serves 4.
  
Roasted Artichoke Salad

       Once you taste this recipe from Ina Garten, the Barefoot Contessa, you'll never purchase marinated artichoke hearts again.  I did not use the 4 Tbs. vinegar she suggests you add during the final stage since I thought that the vinaigrette had plenty of acid.  I also substituted piquillo peppers for plain roasted ones, since that's what I had on hand.  This salad tastes great on days two and three, and it makes plenty!


Fusilli with Shrimp, Orange, Olives and Arugula


       You can substitute farfelle or spirals for the fusilli in this fabulous mix of summery flavors from Giada de Laurentiis.  I also subbed spinach for the arugula since I couldn't find the latter in my local market.


Lemon Panna Cotta with Sugared Blueberries and Sugared Lemon Peel

      I love lemon panna cotta for its creaminess and tang.  This is velvety and rich, thanks to the addition of vanilla paste.  Sugaring the blueberries and lemon peel is easy.  And serve this dessert in elegant champagne coupes or some other stemware.

3 cups half and half, divided
1 envelope (or 2 tsp.) unflavored gelatin 
1/2 cup sugar, less 1 Tbs.
peel from 1 lemon
3/4 tsp. vanilla paste (or you can use 1/2 vanilla bean, split, or my last choice, 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract)
lemon curls (see below for procedure) from another lemon
1 cup blueberries
extra sugar for dusting

1.  Pour 1/2 cup half and half into a medium bowl, sprinkle gelatin over and let sit until gelatin blooms, about 15 minutes. 
2.  Meanwhile, combine remaining half and half, sugar, lemon peel and vanilla paste into a medium-sized saucepan.
3.  Heat gently over medium heat until mixture begins to steam, stirring to dissolve sugar.
4.  Remove from heat, cover and let steep for 10 minutes.
5.  Stir gelatin mixture to incorporate gelatin well, then pour hot half and half mixture through a strainer into gelatin mixture, whisking gently to blend.
6.  Divide mixture among four to six stemmed glasses, depending on the size of the glass.
7.  Cover and chill for at least 6 hours, or overnight.
8.  Meanwhile, use a zesting tool to make about 1 Tbs. lemon curls.  Spread on waxed paper, sprinkle with sugar and let dry.
9.  To sugar blueberries:  Make sure blueberries and washed and dried, but chilled.  They need a little condensation for the sugar to stick, but too much water will dissolve the sugar.  Spread the blueberries on a small plate and sprinkle with sugar.  Roll the blueberries around in the sugar until coated.  Set aside to dry.
10.  To serve, place a few blueberries on top of each serving of panna cotta and garnish with 2 or 3 lemon curls.  Serves 4 to 6.

Wines to drink:  Choose light, crisp whites like Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (CA), crisp and full of white peach and citrus.  It's my favorite go-to sauv blanc.  Or you could try an Albarino, such as the Martin Codax 2009 (Spain) or even a Gruner Veltliner, such as the very affordable Austrian Pepper 2009 (Austria).  Dry, Alsatian whites would work with this menu as well.  Look for Trimbach and Pierre Sparr lables.  And don't forget to ask your wine guy at Spec's for help.

May your tastebuds be entertained without breaking a sweat!

When the weather outside is frightful, gravad lax is so delightful

I follow a number of food blogs.  One of them is Edible Aria, which I admire for its approach to eating healthfully and in an economically feasible manner.  The blog promotes eating sustainable fresh whole foods.  The blogger, Ren, obviously knows what he is doing in the kitchen and posts not only imaginative recipes, but provides links and information to other websites and events promoting responsible food production and consumption.  But I hate to limit Ren with that description.  Visit his blog and find out what he is all about.  I think you'll be impressed. 

I love the whole idea of eating well and eating responsibly.  I try to buy whole foods as much as possible; processed foods will rarely sneak into the house and I have to banish them sternly, telling them in no uncertain terms that they are not welcome.  I also try to buy organic, locally grown fruits, vegetables and proteins as much as I can afford to.  I am fortunate to know many people who farm and raise their own grass-fed beef, chickens, bees, make their own goat cheese, and the like.  I love knowing where my food comes from and I especially love knowing that my food was grown and handled with care, integrity and respect.

Ren inspired me recently when he posted a recipe for gravad lax, a Nordic preparation of fresh salmon cured with dill, sugar and salt.  Quite coincidentally (or maybe because I am prescient) I had purchased a fillet of wild sockeye salmon, one of my favorite seafoods.  I came home that evening, opened my email browser and saw Ren's July 29th post for Dill Pollen Gravad Lax.

I knew what I must do.

Ridiculously easy to prepare, Ren's recipe is challenging only from the perspective that if you lack patience to wait for the curing process to occur, then you'll be a bit antsy while you wait to taste the finished product.  I was.  It was 107 degrees outside and I wanted my gravad lax NOW.  This isn't a spur-of-the-moment kind of food.  You have to plan ahead.  Which is what makes waiting for it so worthwhile.  If you've mastered delayed gratification, that is.

I didn't have the dill pollen called for in my pantry (which is a shame because I have fennel pollen, grains of paradise, kolonji, berbere spice, zatar and so many other obscure seasonings) so I used dill weed.  You can get dill pollen here.  I also used fine flake kosher salt because I had just received a large bag from Penzeys Spices.  And, incidentally, Penzeys is soon to open a new store in Austin and then I may have to grieve the loss of my almost 20-year mail-order relationship with that lovely company.  On second thought, maybe I'll keep ordering that way.  I love the personal notes on the invoices!

But I digress. The salinity of kosher salt is sometimes up to 50% less than other kinds of salt.  So you can adjust the amount to taste if you haven't any sea salt around as Ren calls for in his post.  I used Ren's proportions and got a delicately briny, silky product that seemed to melt in my mouth.  In my future renditions of gravad lax, I intend to experiment with various salts, but sea salt would of course be the most authentic.

I didn't trouble myself with removing pinbones before I cured the salmon fillet.  I wondered if I would regret that but they were so soft and flexible that there was no unpleasantness at all in the salmon's texture.  This has always been true for me when I have grilled or roasted wild salmon.

The heat index in Central Texas makes cooking and eating a chore right now.  But slicing into that cured salmon, its cool, moist, coral flesh falling gracefully from my knife, I was soon enjoying one of the most lovely and delightful summer suppers that I can remember in some time.

Here's how I ate the salmon:  I softened some organic cream cheese and added a little local wildflower honey and some orange zest.  I toasted some soft pumpernickle toast points.  I thinly sliced some red onion.  I opened a jar of nonpareil capers.  I layered everything on top of the toast points.  Heaven, if there is one, must have a little pearly sidewalk cafe that serves food like this.

Then I opened a bottle of Pierre Sparr Alsace One, an Alsatian white wine that is a crisp, dry lively blend of five different varietals.  Alsace One is very affordable; ask your wine guys at Spec's to steer you in the proper direction, or look for it near the French whites.  This wine is a lovely match with the salmon and its accompaniments.  Find another review of this wine here.  Alternatively, you could try the Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris, which is just a few bottles down the row on the same shelf.  It's dry but full of depth from the flavors of fruit and honey and a lot rounder than other renditions of this wine.  This grape varietal has been referred to as a "chameleon."  Bottled by the Italians as Pinot Grigio, it is light and fruity; by the French--particularly in Alsace--it has a flinty minerality and golden honey-kissed richness.  Find a review of the Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris here.  Expect to pay a little more for this wine, but it's still under $20.

In this heat, may your tastebuds recline on a chaise lounge and be indulged.  Oh, Cabana Boy?

Intuitive cooking: inherited and learned

I own an obscene number of cookbooks.  And I collect recipes, only a small portion of which are organized in binders.  I refer to my cookbooks and recipes regularly and I'm always eager to see new ones.  I can spend hours sifting through them, looking for ideas and inspiration.  That's my favorite way to relax and I can do it for hours and not know that time has passed.  Do you have experiences like this with something you absolutely love doing?

When I first began cooking (I gave my first dinner party at 12--complete with LBD and pearls), I referred to cookbooks and other's recipes exclusively.  I followed directions meticulously.  I tried to replicate exactly.  And most of the time I did.  But as I learned techniques, gained experience and realized that I had been gifted with a sharp and rather discriminating palate (read: Hellman's Mayo over Miracle Whip and European butters over Land O' Lakes), I discovered that I could deviate from recipes with a high rate of success and what's more, trust the creative instinct I had been blessed with and just plain wing it.  Most of the time, my creative instinct produced outstanding results.  We won't talk about the time I made coq au vin with Mogen David Concord Grape Wine, however, because purple chicken with an oddly sweet sauce faintly redolent of Welch's grape juice (and adorned festively with purple pearl onions and lurid green parsley, of course) is not in the least bit appetizing.  In defense of my reputation however, and due to circumstances, I must say that no appropriate red wine was available.  Furthermore, I was not even of legal wine-buying age.

But if there are genetic markers for intuitive cooking, I must have inherited mine from my maternal grandmother.  Oma, as we called her, was an incredibly intuitive cook.  She owned cookbooks, clipped recipes from magazines (how many years did we have Bacardi Rum Cake for Christmas???) and would cook from those recipes from time to time.  She managed to produce food in this manner that was good, but tended to be very literal about it all.  If the recipe said to bake the cake for 45 minutes, then darn it, she would bake the cake for 45 minutes even though it meant that the cake was burned on the bottom. 

Watching Oma make bread and pastry without a recipe, however, was a wondrous process--using her hands as scoops for measuring the flour, knowing exactly by the texture of the dough whether she needed more water or more flour for her Christmas nut roll, gauging by eye how much butter and cream cheese she needed to add to make the tender, flaky fruit and nut-filled kolaczi that we devoured by the dozen.

She made substantial, tasty dishes as well by eye and by the guidance of some inner knowledge.  Like the time she made what trained cooks would recognize as a savory charlotte--she used mushrooms, herbs, leftover bread and lots of butter for a beautifully golden brown side dish that went perfectly with a Sunday roast beef dinner.  Or how she would season an Easter leg of lamb with plenty of garlic, rosemary and olive oil.  But instead of the typical mint jelly, she produced a lovely apricot sauce.  But what I really remember about her cooking, though, was what she referred to as Imaginary Soup.  That was Oma's way of using up all the leftovers from the week and making a most fabulous kettle of hearty, rich, flavorful soup that left us all commenting about it for days. 

And that is the nature of intuitive cooking.  Following one's inner voice, inner knowledge, inner palate and often, ingredients on hand to guide the creation of something that can turn out to be quite magical.  Something that is not only greater than the sum of its parts, but that achieves a level of culinary synergy that makes even the cook who created it marvel at its deliciousness.  Many of you have this talent and probably don't even know it.  How do you do it?  Start experimenting with a recipe or favorite dish, tweaking it here and there, substituting ingredients, trusting your inner palate to guide you.  Combine what you have in your fridge and pantry in some inventive way.  Think about what you'd like to taste and, more importantly, how you'd like your finished creation to look on your plate.  Maybe it won't be a fabulous attempt, but quite likely it will.  And you're off!

Last night I opened a bottle of Dona Paula Estate Malbec 2009 (Argentina), one of my favorite budget-friendly red wines.  It's full of cherries and strawberries with just enough acid, leather, chocolate and tannins to make it interesting.  And as I sipped, I thought about dinner--and about what I had on hand to make dinner.  And this is what happened:


Imaginary Pasta

1 lb. spaghetti or linguine
4 Tbs. EVOO
2 to 3 very large cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
1/2 lb. bacon, cooked until crisp and finely crumbled
1 tsp. crushed red pepper (adjust to your taste)
1/2 tsp. dried thyme leaves
1 heaping Tbs. salted capers (if you use brined capers, drain and rinse them before adding and add an additional 1/2 tsp. salt)
1/2 cup dry or off-dry red wine (I used a little leftover pinot noir that had been a disappointment)
EVOO for drizzling
plenty of freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup or more Asiago, Romano and/or Parmesan cheese, shredded (plus extra for passing)
1/2 cup chopped flat leaf parsley

1.  Cook pasta according to package directions.  Rinse, drain and keep warm.
2.  In same pot, heat 4 Tbs. EVOO over medium heat.  Add garlic, red onion and bacon, stirring frequently and monitoring heat carefully so that garlic doesn't get too brown. 
3.  Add crushed red pepper, thyme and capers, stirring to blend.
4.  Add red wine and increase heat to boiling.  Reduce sauce until thickened and syrupy.
5.  Add cooked pasta and toss to coat evenly.  Cover with lid, turn off heat and let sit for about 5 minutes.
6.  Turn pasta onto large platter or into large bowl.  Drizzle generously with EVOO, grind plenty of black pepper over the top of the pasta.
7.  Garnish with shredded cheese and chopped parsley.  Serves 4.


Spinach Salad with Browned Mushrooms and Toasted Walnuts

This spinach salad is slightly wilted from the toasted walnuts, the browned mushrooms and the vinegar reduction.  It's a perfect foil for the richness of the pasta.  It's also my attempt to reconstruct a salad that a friend made for me one sultry summer night when we were, coincidentally, also sipping Dona Paula Malbec.

1 lb. baby spinach leaves
1 small shallot, minced
1/4 cup walnut pieces
2 Tbs. EVOO
1 cup mushrooms, sliced
2 Tbs. red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar
freshly ground black pepper
flake salt to taste

1.  Place spinach leaves in large bowl.
2.  Scatter minced shallot over spinach.
3.  Toast walnut pieces over medium-low heat in medium-sized skillet until fragrant.
4.  Scatter walnut pieces over spinach.
5.  In same pan, heat 2 Tbs. EVOO over medium heat.  Add mushrooms and brown well. 
6. Scatter mushrooms over spinach.
7. In same pan, over medium-high heat, pour in the vinegar and deglaze pan, reducing briefly.
8. Pour warm vinegar over spinach and toss gently; season with freshly ground black pepper and flake salt to taste.  Serves 4.

Citrangequats and roasted kale: of thee I sing

I have a very good friend whose father grows lots of interesting things, including a wide variety of peppers and obscure cultivars of fruit trees.  Recently, she presented me with what appeared to be a lemon.  It was large, thin-skinned, and had an incredibly intoxicating spicy floral scent.  "Ah, a Meyer lemon," I commented.  "No, this is something different.  Some other lemon that starts with "s," or at least that's what I think my father said." 

It turns out that what I had was a citrangequat, a hybrid citrus fruit that was a cross between a citrange and a kumquat.  More specifically, the cultivar I had was called "Thomasville," and more specific still, this fruit was a kumquat hybrid, not a lemon hybrid.  But that golden fruit, with its deeply glowing, intensely aureate skin was already putting ideas in my head and I had plans to devour it and perfume something delectable with its heady bouquet.

How to get the most of this unexpected gift?  Since the citrangequat seemed very much like a Meyer lemon, I started to think about it from that point of reference.  And since it was such a large fruit, I could do more than just make dinner out of it.  I was expecting dinner guests later in the week, so I would reserve part of that citrangequat for pre-dinner cocktails.  The rest of if was mine, and mine alone.

So all day yesterday, I dreamed and dreamed about that fruit.  I dreamed about what I would want to eat with it.  And the recipes from last night's dinner are below:  Pan Seared Halibut with Fried Citrangequat and Salted Capers, and Roasted Kale with Toasted Garlic.  I also made a quick pilaf out of leftover basmati rice (sauteed shallot. butter, white wine and a generous pinch of Adams Reserve Citrus Seafood Rub).  I didn't serve a stupendous wine with this dinner.  Cavit Pinot Grigio is a well-balanced budget white that goes well with fish, and that's what I drank.  Hey, sometimes the food just has to shine. 

And while we're on the subject of food, let's talk about the kale.  Whatever your preconceived notions about this deep green, woody-stemmed wild and wooly relative of cabbage, they will change once you try roasting it simply with EVOO, salt, pepper and minced dehydrated garlic (that will also toast beautifully all over).  Kale treated in this way is nutty, deeply flavorful and seems to evaporate in your mouth in an explosion of intense flavor.  Not at all the nightmare of your childhood, cooked to an unattractive grey-green and tucked into your napkin at the dinner table.  In fact, roast any vegetable and you will see its true nature shine.

And the results apres un reve?  Let's just say this girl is winning the war in the battle of man-food vs. food a man will eat.

Pan-Seared Halibut with Fried Citrangequat

and Salted Capers

2 halibut fillets, approximately 6 oz. each

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 Tbs. butter

2 Tbs. EVOO

½ citrangequat (or substitute Meyer lemon), in very thin slices, seeds removed, juice reserved if possible

2 Tbs. salted capers, rinsed and drained

2 Tbs. citrangequat or Meyer lemon juice

Chopped fresh parsley for garnish

1.  Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2.  Dry halibut fillets with paper towels and generously season with salt and pepper on both sides.

3.  Heat butter and EVOO over medium-high heat in a medium sauté pan that is oven-safe.

4.  Fry citrangequat/lemon slices, turning to brown evenly.  Watch carefully so citrangequat/lemon doesn’t burn.  Remove to a serving platter.

5.   In the same pan, begin cooking the halibut.  Your aim is to develop a great crust on the bottom of your fish, so have the courage of your convictions to leave that fish alone for about 4 minutes.  Brush top of fish with some oil and butter from the pan.

6.  Transfer fish in hot sauté pan to hot oven to finish cooking for about 6-8 minutes.

7.   Just before serving, add capers and citrangequat/lemon juice to pan.  If necessary, add a little water to loosen the fond. Remove fish to serving platter, swirl juices and capers in pan and drizzle over fish.

8.   Arrange fried citrangequat/lemon slices on top of fish and garnish with chopped parsley.  Serves 2.

    Roasted Kale with Toasted Garlic

6 cups chopped kale, woody bottom stems removed

EVOO

Salt

Pepper

Minced dehydrated garlic (I used Penzey’s)

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. 
2. Put chopped kale in a large bowl.
3. Drizzle with as much EVOO as it takes to coat the kale lightly; season generously with salt, pepper, and minced dehydrated garlic.
4. Use your hands to toss and distribute oil and seasoning evenly.
5. Bake for about 10-12 minutes on a large sided baking sheet, tossing every few minutes so that the kale roasts evenly.  The kale should appear toasted in some places, but still emerald green in others.  Sometimes I turn the oven off and leave the door ajar, letting the kale sit in the oven until I'm ready to serve it, especially if the leaves were originally very large and tough.  Serves 2, with leftovers.

You are now leaving your comfort zone

OK, kids, we've been lolling around the culinary warm waters quite awhile now.  And now that I've reeled you in, I want to take you on a little diversion.  Sure, the familiar is great, it's comforting.  But it can also get tiresome if you're the least bit inclined to be a culinary adventurer, unafraid to color outside the lines, live large and think outside the Jack-in-the-Box.

I cannot remember when I was first drawn to the culture of India and its surrounding Asian cousins, but the pull is strong and deep.  For many years, I have been convinced that I have had another life in India, because the craving for the complex layers of spices and fiery chilies can only be satiated by totally immersing myself in about three weeks of intensive cooking this incredibly imaginative cuisine.  I could happily be a vegetarian if I had assistance with food prep because the varieties of vegetable curries, sambars and dals is endless.  And I could sing an aria about my love for basmati rice, a long-grained non-sticky rice which is wonderfully fragrant in a nutty, slightly floral way.  In fact, the Sanskit word for this kind of rice means "fragrant one," and it is the basis for many aromatic and delectable dishes such as biryanis and pulaos, not to mention kheer, the Indian rice pudding that is scented with saffron and cardamom and often studded with golden raisins and pistachios or cashews.  On board yet?

I will want to share my love of other Asian cuisines with you in future, but today I offer some of the foods I've been craving and preparing this week.  The dal recipe I've included is aromatic, mild and is one of the most simple to put together with common ingredients in your pantry.  But this is just the beginning, because dal (Sanskrit for "to split) is a generic term for any kind of dried split legume or whole pulse/bean/pea such as garbanzo (or chana dal), pigeon peas (or toor dal), or red lentils (masoor dal).  The combinations and varieties are virtually endless.

I've also included a recipe for spinach that incorporates the rich flavor of coconut and warm spices without the typical American association of sweetness.  Coconut oil is actually a very healthful cooking oil and is valued for its its antibacterial and antifungal properties (among other things) as well as its flavor.  In India, coconut oil is used mostly in the western regions, near Kerala (where the best bananas in the world are grown!) and the coastal regions, which rely on fish and seafood for protein in addition to the legumes that are a staple in most Indian diets.

The third recipe is for a silky, fragrant, and moderately fiery eggplant curry that actually originated in Sri Lanka, the island off the southeastern tip of India.  This is more of a "dry" curry than the ones you may have eaten that are typically more like a soup or stew.  But dry curries are popular on the main continent of India as well, so this will be an introduction for you.  I would highly recommend that you try any of these dishes with basmati rice.

What kind of wine could you serve?  Dry or off-dry whites with fruity, floral and aromatic qualities are what seem to harmonize best.  So my first pick would be a dry reisling, a dry gewurtztraminer or a gruner veltliner.  What I had last night was a blend of varietals called One 2007 (Alsace).  I can't describe this wine any better than it describes itself on the back label: "...a fusion of delicate floral aromas with fresh fruit flavors...crisp, dry, and well-bodied..."  In other words VERY YUMMY AND REFRESHINGLY CRISP.  Don't overchill this wine!  In fact, don't overchill any white wine.  I made the mistake of speed-chilling in my freezer (naughty, naughty) to too low a temperature.  It took a long time for this wine to open up and release its lovely characteristics, but when it did, it complemented my meal very well.  Thank you oh so very much, wine guy extraordinaire at Spec's!

Finally, there are two introductory cookbooks I would recommend if you too get bitten by the India bug.  The first is a small, hard to find and possibly out of print paperback called Curries Without Worries by Sudha Koul.  This is a great little book to start you out gently in the ways of Indian cookery.  The second is a more recent book entitled 660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer.  It has a mind-blowing array of recipes that are very doable for the novice.  Both books are wonderfully helpful and charming to read.

Ap ka khana svadista ho!  That's Hindi for bon appetit!

TRULY DELICIOUS EVERYDAY DAL

 This dal freezes beautifully and is mildly spicy.  You can adjust the heat  by increasing or decreasing the chilies.  You can also gently toast the spices to incorporate a smokier flavor.

1 cup lentils (can use brown lentils, French lentils, red or yellow lentils)
6 cups water
salt to taste
3 ripe medium-size tomatoes, chopped (when I'm in a hurry, I use canned)
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbs. fresh ginger, finely chopped or grated (peel with a vegetable peeler first or scrub well)
4 Tbs. ghee (clarified butter) or oil
1 tsp. tumeric
1 tsp. cumin seeds
2 dry hot red peppers

chopped fresh coriander and plain yoghurt for garnish

Put all ingredients except coriander and yoghurt in a medium-size soup pot and bring to a boil on high heat.  Reduce heat to low and cook until lentils are tender.  This takes about 30 minutes, or more if lentils are older and tougher.  At this stage, you can use an immersion blender (or regular blender) to partially puree the dal.

When the dal is done, serve it will coriander and yoghurt along with rice or chapatis (Indian griddle breads similar to pitas).  Serves 4-6 people.

Vambotu Curry

            Sri Lankan Eggplant Curry  (from Madhur Jaffrey’s World Vegetarian)

The beauty of this vegetarian curry is in the toasted spices that cling to the eggplant.  Coconut milk mellows the heat and an optional yogurt and cilantro garnish will cool the heat index down a bit.  Serve this curry with basmati or jasmine rice.  Make it as hot as you like—you can add up to 2 teaspoons of cayenne pepper.  To really get the full impact of this dish, grind your spices fresh (and separately) if you have a clean coffee mill.

1 lb. eggplant (this is lovely with any kind of eggplant: Japanese, Italian, white, or a combination of any)

2 Tbs. peanut or other mild oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp. ground cumin

1 tsp. ground coriander

¼ tsp. ground turmeric

½ tsp. ground fennel

½ tsp. ground cayenne (or up to 2 tsp. if desired)

4 tsp. fresh lime or lemon juice

1 small cinnamon stick

15 fresh curry leaves (or substitute Thai basil if in season if you must)

1 small onion (approx. 2 oz.) peeled and cut into fine half-rings

¾ cup coconut milk from a well-stirred can

2 tsp. ground brown mustard seeds

Greek yogurt  (optional)

Chopped cilantro  (optional)

1.    Preheat oven to 475 degrees.

2.    Cut the eggplant into ½ inch slices, then cut each slice into wedges about 1 inch in size.  For larger eggplants, you will get between 4 to 8 wedges per slice, depending on the size of the eggplant.  Put the eggplant wedges in a large bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper, then add cumin, coriander, turmeric, fennel, and cayenne.  Drizzle with 1 Tbs. oil and toss everything together until eggplant pieces are coated with spices and oil.

3.    Spread eggplant pieces on a large baking sheet and roast in oven for about 15 to 20 minutes.  The eggplant should take on a reddish tone and the spices should become very fragrant.  If it doesn’t seem toasted enough, turn on the broiler unit and finish toasting, watching carefully so eggplant doesn’t burn.

4.    Remove roasted eggplant from oven and return to bowl; drizzle with fresh lime juice and toss gently.  Set aside.

5.    Put the remaining 1 Tbs. oil in a large frying pan or wok (non-stick works best) and set over medium-high heat.  When oil is hot, put in the cinnamon stick and very quickly after that, the curry leaves.  

6.   Stir and put in the onion, continuing to stir-fry for about 2 minutes, or until onion has browned a bit. 

7.   Put in the seasoned eggplant, stirring and tossing for about 4 minutes.  

8.   Combine the coconut milk with the mustard seeds and pour over the eggplant.  As soon as the mixture starts to bubble, turn heat to medium-low and cook, uncovered, for 3 minutes, stirring gently now and then.

9.   Check for seasoning and correct for salt, cayenne and lime.  

10. Serve hot with rice.  To garnish, scatter with cilantro leaves.  Yogurt on the side will cool the spiciness if you desire.  Serves 3 to 4.

Coconut Spinach

Think nutty, creamy, and addictive.  The coconut oil adds great depth and the yogurt adds creaminess and tang.  Make this side dish as hot as you would like.

1 heaping Tbs. virgin coconut oil (such as Central Market Organics brand)

1/3 cup finely chopped onion

½ tsp. kosher salt

1 lb. baby spinach leaves

¼ tsp. plus 1 pinch garam masala (you can find this in an Indian grocery store

            or at Fiesta Market; alternatively, contact me for recipes to make your

            own fresher tasting, very easily)

1/8 tsp. (or more) ground cayenne pepper

½ cup Greek yogurt (you can strain any good quality plain yogurt with equally

            good results)

2 Tbs.  unsweetened dessicated coconut, optional  (this is not the same as Baker’s coconut, which is sweetened; you can find this at an Indian grocery store or Fiesta Market)

1.      Heat coconut oil in large skillet or wok over medium-high heat until rippling; add chopped onion and salt.  Saute until onions are slightly caramelized, being careful not to burn.

2.      Add spinach leaves and cover to create steam, lifting cover to stir spinach occasionally.  Continue to steam and stir until spinach is wilted and coated with coconut oil and onion mixture.

3.      Add garam masala and cayenne and stir well; add Greek yogurt and heat through, stirring well.  Yogurt will create a creamy sauce.  Garnish with unsweetened coconut, if desired.  Serves 4.